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Ignition Barrel Replacement & Lock Repair Melbourne

The key goes in. You turn it. Nothing happens. Or worse, the key goes in and won't come back out.

Ignition and lock problems don't get better with time. They get worse. What starts as a minor stiffness or an occasional jam eventually becomes a key that refuses to turn at all, and you're stranded in a car park with an engine that won't fire.

We diagnose and fix ignition and lock issues on-site across Melbourne. No towing to the dealer. No guesswork. Buzz shows up, figures out what's wrong, and fixes it. 22 years of experience means he's seen every variation of this problem.

Common Ignition Barrel Problems

The ignition barrel (also called the ignition cylinder) is a mechanical component. It wears out. After thousands of key insertions over the years, the internal wafers, springs, and tumblers degrade. Here's what that looks like:

Key Won't Turn

What's happening: The wafers inside the barrel are worn, misaligned, or have debris caught between them. The key can insert but can't rotate because the internal mechanism won't engage properly.

The temptation: Force it. Jiggle harder. Use two hands. Don't. Forcing a stuck ignition barrel can snap the key inside it, which turns a $300 problem into a $600 one.

The fix: We disassemble the barrel, replace the worn wafers, clean out any debris, and reassemble. If the barrel is too far gone, we replace the full unit and recode it to work with your existing key.

Key Gets Stuck in the Ignition

What's happening: Worn wafers are gripping the key blade and won't release it. Sometimes it's a steering lock that hasn't disengaged properly. Try turning the steering wheel slightly while gently pulling the key.

If that doesn't work: The barrel needs servicing or replacement. Do not yank the key out with pliers. That breaks things that didn't need breaking.

Key Turns but Nothing Happens

What's happening: This is usually electrical rather than mechanical. The ignition switch (the electrical component behind the barrel) has failed. The barrel physically turns fine, but the switch isn't sending the start signal to the engine.

The fix: Replace the ignition switch. Sometimes the barrel and switch can be replaced independently; on some vehicles, they're a combined unit.

Worn Key

Not every ignition problem is the barrel's fault. Sometimes the key itself is the issue. Years of use wears down the blade profile. The key that used to turn smoothly now requires a wiggle and a prayer.

Quick test: If you have a spare key and it turns fine, the barrel is probably okay. Your main key is just worn out. Get a fresh car key replacement cut to the original code and the problem often disappears.

Ignition Barrel Replacement Cost: Real Numbers

People want to know what this costs. Fair enough. Here's what you're looking at:

Service Typical Cost Range
Ignition barrel service (clean, replace wafers) $150 – $300
Ignition barrel replacement (full unit) $250 – $500
Ignition switch replacement $200 – $450
Barrel + switch combined replacement $350 – $600
Key extraction (key broken inside barrel) $100 – $250

These are ballpark figures for common vehicles. European cars tend to sit at the higher end because their components cost more. We give exact pricing on the phone once we know your make, model, and the symptoms.

Dealer comparison: A dealer will typically charge $500-$1,200+ for ignition work, plus towing to get the car there, plus a waiting period. And if they find other "issues" while they're at it, well, you know how that goes.

We fix it where the car sits. No tow. No upsell. No three-day wait.

Door Lock Problems

It's not just ignitions. Door locks wear out too, especially on older vehicles and high-mileage cars.

Common door lock issues:

  • Key won't turn in the door lock: Same problem as the ignition barrel, different location. Worn wafers.
  • Lock is frozen or seized: Corrosion, lack of lubrication, or internal mechanism failure.
  • Central locking doesn't engage one door: Could be the actuator motor or the linkage. We diagnose on-site.
  • Lock barrel spins freely: The internal mechanism has broken. Needs replacement.

We repair and replace door lock barrels, matched to your existing key where possible. That means one key still operates everything: ignition and all doors.

Boot / Tailgate Locks

Same principle. Boot locks can seize, jam, or stop responding to the remote. We fix the mechanical lock barrel and, if needed, the electronic latch mechanism.

On some modern vehicles, the boot only opens electronically via the fob or a button. If the fob has stopped working, that might be your actual issue, not the lock itself.

On-Site Diagnosis: Why It Matters

Ignition and lock problems can have multiple causes. A key that won't turn might be:

  • A worn barrel
  • A worn key
  • A steering lock issue
  • An electronic immobiliser fault
  • A combination of two or more of the above

Diagnosing over the phone gives us a starting point. Diagnosing in person with the vehicle in front of us gives us the answer. That's why Buzz comes to you, inspects the vehicle, and tells you exactly what's wrong before any work starts.

If the diagnosis reveals something different from what you expected, we tell you. If it's simpler and cheaper than anticipated, great. If it's more complex, you get the updated price before we proceed. No surprises.

When to Repair vs. Replace

Repair makes sense when:

  • The barrel is stiff but not severely worn
  • Only one or two wafers need replacement
  • The key still inserts and turns with some effort
  • The issue is recent. Catching it early saves money

Replacement makes sense when:

  • The barrel is severely worn and has been problematic for months
  • The key has snapped inside the barrel (often damages the internals beyond repair)
  • There's significant corrosion inside the mechanism
  • The car is relatively new and you want a long-term fix rather than a patch job

We'll give you an honest recommendation. If a $150 repair will buy you another 5 years, we'll tell you that. If a repair is just delaying the inevitable, we'll tell you that too. No incentive to oversell.

3-Year Warranty

All ignition barrel and lock work comes with our 3-year warranty on parts and labour. That covers the barrel, the wafers, the switch, the recode. Everything we touch.

22 years in the trade. 30,000+ keys. Buzz knows which parts hold up and which don't. The warranty reflects that confidence.

Ignition playing up? Key stuck? Call Buzz on 0456 013 246 or contact us. On-site diagnosis and repair across Melbourne. 3-year warranty on all work.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if it's the ignition barrel or the key that's the problem?
Easiest test: try your spare key. If the spare turns smoothly, it's your key that's worn. A fresh key cut to the original code will fix it. If the spare also struggles, it's the barrel. No spare key? Call us and we'll diagnose on-site.
Can you fix the ignition barrel without replacing it?
Often, yes. If the wear is moderate, we can replace individual wafers and springs inside the barrel and restore it to proper function. This is cheaper than a full replacement and works well when caught early. If the barrel is too far gone, we'll recommend replacement and explain why.
Will I need a new key if you replace the ignition barrel?
Not necessarily. On most vehicles, we recode the new barrel to match your existing key. One key still operates everything: ignition, doors, boot. On some vehicles where recoding isn't possible, we'll discuss your options upfront.
How long does an ignition barrel replacement take?
Most ignition barrel jobs take 1 to 2 hours, depending on the vehicle. Some cars make the barrel easy to access; others bury it behind the steering column shroud and require more disassembly. We'll give you a time estimate when we diagnose the issue.

Need a Key? Let's Sort It.

Call us on 0456 013 246 or fill out a form and we'll get back to you fast.